Remember once again to transfer your alterations to the paper pattern.ħ In the meantime you will be finalising your choice of fabrics, linings and interlining. But if not, you will have to do whatever it takes to get you there. Transfer all the alterations to the paper pattern.Ħ You will now need to fit the calico again to fine tune your toile. It’s actually easier to work with than a complicated fix on an old one with scraps of fabric everywhere and certainly less confusing when you come to fit again. It’s quite possible you need to make a new one depending on the amount of work needed, so be prepared to do so. Your toile is your reference - it’s your map on where to go next.ĥ Unpick your toile. Is the cut of the pattern right for this individual? Are the style lines in the most flattering position? Is the design well balanced? Are you showing the best parts of the body. They are more than likely want to add, detract or change some areas. Now your client can see the reality of this design in the mirror. It stands to reason that the client needs to be wearing the correct underwear and shoes that are nearest to the heel height and shape. By pinning in and around the contours of the body you can see where to fit. You are now looking to achieve three things: This is the first time the client has really seen the reality of your design. Now you are ready for your first fitting. Take measurements for your records - that is, of course, you have decided on a style and you are ready to start.ģ You will now construct a paper pattern to fit those personal measurements - a ‘one off’ pattern.Ĭut this out in suitable weight calico and make a wearable pattern, which is known as a toile. Attach fabric choices and a collection of swatches that demonstrate the finished design making it easier for the client to understand your vision and vice versa. All the information you can collect will be invaluable and enable you to succeed.Ģ After your first consultation you should have enough information to put a collection of ideas down in the form of a moodboard – something a bit more focused. You need to be aware of the occasion, the time of year, suitability to client’s likes and dislikes figure shape, age, style. Anything and everything is possible at this stage. If you are creating a garment for a client, this is how it will work:ġ You will arrange an initial consultation with the client, at which you will have a general discussion where you can both talk through your ideas - sketches, fabric swatches, colours, embellishments. Starting at the foundations, work your way out to the vision of the final design that we, the voyeur get to see! Simply look at your idea and make it happen. Fabric becomes like wallpaper, but you need to be able to construct the walls first!Īlthough there are traditional techniques associated with couture, there is no right or wrong in its way of thinking – you step outside of the box. It’s like building a house – you need an infrastructure, and you can turn your cloth into any creation. Whatever you can dream up as a design can be implemented when it comes to couture - you just have to figure out how. You would expect to use the most expensive of fabrics, the most labour-intensive construction techniques and the finest of hand finishing. The couture service is seen as the very top end of the scale – it is time consuming and costly, and you need to be extremely experienced to offer this service.
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